What Dentists Really Think About the Tooth Gem Trend

hidden gemsEverything You Need to Know About Tooth GemsDiamond-encrusted teeth are making a comeback along with everything Y2K... and dentists have thoughts. 

By Fiona Embleton

June 5, 2022

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Bling by Bianca // Allure

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Flashing your pearly whites has taken on a whole new meaning with the recent revival of tooth gems. Popularized in the late ‘90s and early 2000s, the timing for this resurgence makes sense: We're already sticking Y2K-inspired rhinestones on our faces, breaking out the frosted eye shadow, and revisiting "thong jeans" so low-rise they would make even Paris Hilton blush. It was only a matter of time before bonding Swarovski crystal butterflies to our enamel made a comeback, too.

Dental bling may be one of this year's biggest beauty trends, but it's nothing new. Anthropological records show that dentists as far back as the Mayan Empire decorated teeth with jade, gold, and turquoise, according to Anjali Rajpal M.D., a cosmetic dentist in Beverly Hills, California, nicknamed "The Diamond Dentist" on account of the bejeweled designs she creates for her celebrity clientele. 

Tooth jewelry also has significance in Black culture — a well-known example is grills, which were first worn by West Indian immigrants in the '70s and '90s hip-hop artists. Grills are decorative covers made of gold, silver, or encrusted with jewels that snap over one or more teeth and are removed at the end of each day. Tooth gems as we know them today differ from grills, but it's important to recognize the cultures they're derived from. 

Instead of a mouthful of precious metal, tooth gems are usually a single or a few delicate multi-colored gems or diamonds that are bonded individually to the teeth. Pinterest is clearly here for the trend, with the site reporting an 85 percent uptick in searches for "tooth gems" last year alone, while TikTok views for the hashtag #toothgems currently stand at 130.4m. "Tooth gems add a little edge to someone's style and are a less invasive way to make a statement than a tattoo," Dr. Rajpal tells Allure.

Aesthetics aside, what about the dental health implications of these tiny adornments? We asked experts to share how tooth gems can be applied, and cared for, safely.

Meet the Experts:

• Anjali Rajpal, M.D., a cosmetic dentist in Beverly Hills, California.
• Michael Apa, M.D., an aesthetic dentist in New York City.
• Brian Kantor, M.D., a cosmetic dentist in New York City.

How are tooth gems applied?

Everyone's bite is different, so there's no avoiding a consultation first – sorry, dentist's orders. "[A consultation appointment] is also an opportunity to take my client's style and personality into account when collaborating with them for their jewelry design," says Dr. Rajpal.

If you're choosing a semi-permanent tooth gem, no drilling is required: The technique is similar to the way braces are applied. "An acidic solution (or etching gel) is placed on the tooth's surface, microscopically roughening the enamel, before the gemstone is bonded to it with an adhesive and curing lamp," explains New York City-based aesthetic dentist Michael Apa M.D. The whole process only takes a matter of minutes and is painless, provided the gem is bonded to the surface of a healthy tooth, Dr. Apa says. "If you've got worn-away enamel from grinding your teeth or eating too many acidic foods, there will likely be sensitivity," he adds.

Permanent tooth gems do require drilling a hole in the desired location, so be ready for the commitment if you're planning on getting this adornment because it won't be easy to remove. Also worth noting: While tooth gems can be bonded to veneers, Dr. Apa says they can't be worn with Invisalign.

How much do tooth gems cost?

There's no one-size-fits-all price tag. The cost will largely depend on your choice of design and materials (a Swarovski crystal, for example, will be cheaper than a diamond). Some dentists charge two separate fees – one for the gemstone and another for the application. "My in-office fees include both and can range from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars depending on the size, quality, and quantity of the stones and the nature of the design," says Dr. Rajpal.

How long do tooth gems last?

Most tooth gems are semi-permanent and can last anywhere between six months to one year, says Brian Kantor M.D., a cosmetic dentist in New York City. The right aftercare and dental materials used to bond the gemstone to the tooth will help you get the most out of your new dental jewelry.

"For the first 24 hours after getting a tooth gem, you should only eat soft foods and avoid using an electric toothbrush or drinking soda, coffee, or tea to protect the fresh bond," says Dr. Kantor, adding that picking or playing with your tooth gem is also off-limits. Sometimes a tooth gem may fall off on its own if you bite down hard on something, but Dr. Kantor says not to worry: "There's no harm to your tooth if that happens and the gem can simply be re-attached."

Semi-permanent tooth gems can also be safely removed by a dentist if you change your mind or want to switch up the design. “The gem is simply polished off along with any adhesive on the tooth," says Dr. Rajpal. As for permanent tooth gems, though, be warned that removing a permanent tooth gem that was inserted into a tooth will leave a hole. "This hole will then need to be filled in with a white filling material that is color-matched to the existing shade of the tooth," adds Dr. Rajpal.

Are tooth gems safe?

If you ask Dr. Apa, tooth gems are purely an accessory. "They're a very specific aesthetic choice because they don't offer the restorative benefits that come with veneers or crowns," he says. On top of not offering any benefits, there are a few dental risks that come with getting a set of gems. 

"Tooth gems can trap plaque and create places for stray food particles and harmful bacteria to hide," Dr. Kantor explains. Needless to say, keeping the gem clean and practicing good oral hygiene is essential if you want to avoid gum inflammation, decay, or other dental issues. Alongside regular flossing, Dr. Apa recommends brushing twice a day with a non-abrasive toothpaste and soft bristle sonic toothbrush "because the vibration offers a deeper clean and dislodges food stuck to the gemstone," he says.

The bottom line? In general, as long as a dentist applies your chosen gem, and you're taking proper care of your teeth at home, "the risks are minimal," Dr. Apa says. In the wrong hands, he warns you could end up getting a gem with a rough surface that can cause traumatic lesions on the inside of the lip. "Or if the gem isn't placed properly, you can break an opposing tooth when you bite down," he cautions. 

So, I shouldn't try applying tooth gems at home?

Nope! Advice from dentists hasn't stopped folks from taking the DIY route with nail art gems and superglue, but it should. "It sounds obvious, but nobody should be ingesting toxic glue,"  insists Dr. Rajpal, who prefers to work with biocompatible materials such as gold and precious or semiprecious stones. "Besides, glue doesn't properly bond the gem to the tooth structure as well as dental materials," she explains. "It's far safer for a tooth gem to be applied by an experienced dentist, using a non-toxic material and polished to avoid any bacterial traps, as it will last longer, be more comfortable and hygienic."

For the same reason, Dr. Apa recommends a dentist remove the gem to avoid accidentally stripping away healthy enamel or tooth structure. "You shouldn't DIY anything in dentistry," he says. "Tooth gem application is a dental procedure, and all procedures should be performed by a professional." 

More stories to take a bite into:

• I Took on Credit Card Debt to Get Braces as an Adult
• Dentists Reveal the Correct Order to Brush Your Teeth, Floss, and Use Mouthwash
• How to Deal With Teeth Grinding and Jaw Clenching

Now, see how dental care has evolved over the last 100 years:

Fiona Embleton is an award-winning freelance beauty editor with a special interest in fragrance writing. She is a former senior beauty editor for Marie Claire UK and previously held roles at Stylist and Cosmopolitan UK. Her writing has also appeared in international publications such as Elle.com UK, Grazia UK, Women’s Health UK, Harper’s Bazaar Arabia and Vogue Scandinavia. An English... Read moreContributor

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